Tips For Travelers: Riding Japan's Railway System
<B> Tips For Travelers: Riding Japan's Railway System</B>
By Robert Selwitz
When most Americans think about rail travel, if indeed they do, it's usually regarding commuter rail links between their suburban homes and city jobs. With the primary exception of the Northeast corridor between Boston and Washington, long distance rail travel is not considered a real option. But the opposite is true of Japan.
In Japan, long distance trains are the way to go, and the nation is latticed with a rail system that is unquestionably among the world's best. Trains operated by a number of private Japan Railway lines--the system is not nationalized--are clean, quick, convenient and on time.
For foreign visitors, the Japan Rail Pass is the simplest means of navigating the system and the country. Usable for virtually any intracity trip, and also on JR lines that intersect the subway systems in Tokyo, Osaka and other cities--as well as express trains from Narita and Kansai airports into Tokyo and Osaka--the pass comes in two classes and three durations: Adult "ordinary" (standard or economy) class passes cost $236 for seven days, $375 for 14 days, and $479 for 21 consecutive days of travel; while "green" (first class) tickets cost $314 for seven days, $508 for 14 days and $661 for 21 days. Virtually all Japanese trains are accessible by either pass except for the new Nozomi super express. However, regular Shinkansen trains--best known by the misnomer "bullet train"--undoubtedly will meet the needs of business travelers.
It is critical to note that the Japan Rail Pass cannot be bought in Japan, and can be bought only by those entering Japan under the temporary visitor status. That covers most business travelers, as long as they buy a pass voucher at home. When the voucher is exchanged for the pass once in Japan, unlimited rail transit is possible.
Passes may be validated at special Japan Rail travel service centers in Narita and Kansai airports, or at travel centers in downtown areas. If you haven't validated the pass before arriving at your hotel, your concierge should be able to point you to the nearest location.
Travelers using the passes should make individual seat reservations at either Japan Rail Centers or through their travel agents. This is particularly important during rush-hour service between Tokyo and Osaka, and along any of the other more popular train routes.
For travelers staying within the city limits of Tokyo or Osaka, the JR pass probably is not worth the cost or effort. But for travel between these cities, or virtually anywhere else in Japan, the pass is the way to go. One reason is the cost. A week's pass costs not much more than one-way in a two-hour taxi ride between Narita airport and downtown Tokyo. And it also is close to the cost of a regular roundtrip train ticket between Japan's most prominent cities.
Furthermore, the trains are very efficient, not just speeding across the country, but compared with door-to-door travel times of flying between Tokyo and Osaka. Shinkansen trains cover the trip in under three hours, much less than the time involved in accessing airports and flying between them.
The trains are extremely comfortable. Both classes of service provide contoured seats in which you can relax, sightsee or work. Indeed, the main difference between green and ordinary classes is the size of the seats, amount of leg room and the fact that standing room is not sold in green cars. This can be important during rush hour or holiday periods when ordinary cars can get crowded with standees.
An adjunct to green-car service are enclosed compartments on some trains that include a radio intercom to the cafeteria. A call will bring a choice of fresh Japanese sandwiches, beer and wine. The same food is offered via compact food wagons that ply the aisles of all cars.
Japan Air Lines and ANA passengers can buy Japan Rail passes when purchasing their international flight tickets. Vouchers also are available at U.S. and Canadian offices of Japan Travel Bureau International, Kintetsu International Express, Nippon Travel Agency, Pacific Creative Service Inc. and Tokyo Tourist Corporation.
John Tedford, spokesman for Japan Rail in New York City, said rail travel makes the most sense for trips under five hours. "An eleven-hour journey from Tokyo to Sapporo would better be covered by air, but for Tokyo to Osaka, Kyoto or Kobe, rail is the way to go."
Tedford, like many other veterans of the Japan transit scene, also urged visitors to avoid driving in Japan due to fearsome traffic, the fact that Japanese drivers drive on the left side of the road and signage that is almost exclusively in Japanese. In fact, he stressed, the only non-Japanese drivers in Japan tend to be those who must transport heavy gear or equipment.
He also urged rail users to book advance reservations. They are mandatory in first class, he said, "and generally a good idea whenever you go, even in ordinary."
Other train travel tips include being aware that porters are generally not available in Japan rail stations and luggage cannot be checked through. Therefore, it is recommended that you travel with light, small bags. Also, be prepared to leave your seat well before the train arrives at your destination. In-station pause times tend to be short, and you don't want to be charging down the aisle as your train is about to start up for its next stop.
Be aware that in major train stations, the rail lines are located at the top and the subways at the bottom. Therefore, using a subway to reach the train often means climbing up, which means you can be in for some serious work if you're moving heavy luggage from the metro to your train. Be sure to allow more time to access your train prior to departure if you find yourself in that situation.
The JR network features 13,000 miles of track that cover virtually every corner of Japan's four main islands. There are 26 ,000 daily departures, and trains operate at speeds up to 170 miles per hour. For those travelers whose business will be concentrated in just one sector of Japan, there are four other passes covering specific geography, also available from Japan Railways.
The four specific passes include the JR East Pass for Northeastern Honshu, the JR West Sanyo Area Pass for western Honshu along the Inland Sea and Northern Kyushu, the JR West Kansai Area Pass for travel within the Osaka metropolitan area, and the JR Kyushu pass, for train travel within Kyushu Island.